Cakes that look almost identical to their fruit counterparts are novel and difficult for me to resist, having first enjoyed an apple one in Tokyo Station. Koi Dessert Bar released limited editions of such cakes in the form of mandarins (first released in April) and that was quickly followed by pears, peaches and apples.
After much effort, this is the Mandarin ($12.00). N and I had first attempted to chase this down on our visit to Koi Dessert Kitchen in Top Ryde in June and then on subsequent visits to the original Koi Dessert Bar in Chippendale, only to be disappointed each time. Even at the Koi Dessert Bar’s stall at Parramatta Lanes, I had to visit three evenings out of the four it was running — I’m not that dedicated; dropping by is just convenient — to finally track it down on the last day, Friday. It’s one cake that’s very difficult to track down.
The Mandarin is described as a ‘mandarin and vanilla mousse, encased in a lemon madeleine tart and filled with oozing pineapple jam’.
Ordinarily, cakes from Koi Dessert Bar have never always delivered on the promise flavours, but this is the unfortunate exception. The flavour of vanilla dominates the mousse without no trace of mandarin. Rather, the mandarin flavour comes through only as candied rind in the jam. The tropical flavour of pineapple is not evident in the jam at all, although it may lend the natural sweetness in it. A citrus flavour comes through the madeleine tart, although not identifiably lemon.
Overall, the cake was a disappointment in terms of size (~4cm in circumference) and flavour (lacking promised flavours and complexity) and texture (the pedestrian vanilla mousse dominating). Perhaps I’d have more luck with the other flavours — if I can manage to track them down again! — with the peach sounding promising.
Koi Dessert Bar occupied a stall between 10 – 13 October in Arcade Jam, Aird Street as part of Parramatta Lanes 2017 at Parramatta NSW 2150.