Koi Dessert Kitchen, Ryde

Koi Dessert Kitchen opened in Ryde dur­ing mid-2017 to com­ple­ment the Koi Dessert Bar in Chippendale.

We had our sights set on a man­dar­in and pine­apple mousse that’s shaped like a man­dar­in, but that wasn’t to be had on a Saturday even­ing. Instead, we find this Black Truffle ($20), a lim­ited edi­tion with pop­ping candy, cof­fee mousse, truffle and cof­fee sponge.

Set in the gold and red chocol­ate sphere are truffle shav­ings, sponge and gold pop­ping candy. To be hon­est, we’re not fans of the truffle shav­ings. The bite to the papery tex­ture and the intense earthy mush­room notes of the truffle do not mesh well as a com­pon­ent of a dessert.

Beneath the sphere is a cof­fee and truffle mousse. Here, the truffle notes are more mel­low with the rich­ness and bit­ter­ness of the cof­fee cut­ting through for an enjoy­able cof­fee mousse with a pleas­ant savoury umami. This was the high­light of the cake with the crisp tart base adding crunch.

Overall, the Black Truffle was an inter­est­ing one-off exper­i­ence. We’d be happy to eat the cof­fee and truffle mousse again, but not at this price.

And this is the Chocolate Delight, a chocol­ate mousse with pas­sion­fruit curd ($12).

The chocol­ate mousse was smooth with the tangy pas­sion­fruit curd cut­ting through with its refresh­ingly tangy notes. We’d have appre­ci­ated more, as well as more com­plex­ity to the cake giv­en that cakes with more com­plic­ated fla­vour pro­files and con­struc­tion at the Dessert Bar went for $9.50.

The Kitchen is not as big as the Bar, but there’s a ded­ic­ated area for mas­ter­classes open to the pay­ing pub­lic. The one down­side is that since the open­ing of the Kitchen, the cake selec­tion at the Bar has reduced dra­mat­ic­ally. Very few of the new cakes are not offered at the Bar, so we found ourselves turn­ing away on mul­tiple occa­sions before find­ing the time to vis­it Ryde some months later. There were new cakes but there were also price hikes.

Koi Dessert Kitchen is loc­ated at Shop 3 62/​66 Blaxland Rd, Ryde NSW 2112.