Koi Dessert Bar, Chippendale

A dessert of a chocol­ate mousse hid­den under a rasp­berry coulis, ganache and cocoa-but­ter on a chocol­ate soil was declared to be ‘abso­lutely per­fect’ by Masterchef Australia judges in 2015. That was Reynold’s ‘The Forbidden Fruit’ and mere view­ers can enjoy an updated ver­sion of this mem­or­able dessert at Koi Dessert Bar. How do you improve on ‘abso­lutely perfect’?

Called Forbidden Fruit v2 ($15.00), this ver­sion con­sists of apple crumble pan­nacotta, spiced apple, chocol­ate mousse, rasp­berry coulis and almond soil. It is, without doubt, one the most beau­ti­ful dessert I’ve seen, and there is no short­age of com­pet­i­tion in the the cake cab­in­et at Koi Dessert Bar,.

Cracking open the crispy white chocol­ate shell of the apple and you’re reminded by the rich sweet­ness of the mousse and ooz­ing tart coulis that chocol­ate and rasp­berry are a per­fect pair­ing, while mint leaves and a green sponge add pops of refresh­ing fla­vour and col­our, as well as vari­ation in texture.

Beneath the apple is the apple crumble pan­nacotta, with an almond soil crumble provid­ing the quint­es­sen­tial crunch atop a thin lay­er of pan­nacotta lightly spiced with cinnamon.

And hid­den beneath the pan­nacotta, all in a white chocol­ate hemi­spher­ic­al shell are apples, cooked but retain­ing their bite and lightly spiced, sit­ting atop a gen­er­ously rich bed of dulche de leche with a hint of bit­ter­ness to bal­ance the sweet­ness in the bot­tom half of this dessert.

Eating the Forbidden Fruit v2 is an exper­i­ence in itself, as you move from the light and refresh­ing qual­it­ies in the ‘apple’ to the rich­er and heav­ier fla­vours in the bowl. It’s more expens­ive than the oth­er cakes on offer, but its com­plex­ity in con­struc­tion and the abso­lute deli­cious­ness of the res­ult leaves you with no room for dis­ap­point­ment. It is ‘abso­lutely per­fect’, truly indul­gent, just like the first version.

This Apricot Black Sesame ($12.00) with black ses­ame mousse, jas­mine ganache and apricot agar is rel­at­ively simple in com­par­is­on but holds its own.

Unless we’re talk­ing whole black ses­ame or black tahini, black ses­ame is an elu­sive fla­vour that’s almost always it’s drowned out by more dom­in­ant fla­vours when paired with some­thing else. The cake here, though, has hit the sweet spot by pair­ing black ses­ame with apricot agar. Apricot isn’t some­thing I’d think to pair with black ses­ame, but it works like a dream as the sweet­ness of the apricot acts as if to reset your pal­ate with­in each bite so that the fla­vour of the black ses­ame retains its strength throughout.

The jas­mine ganache is bright with flor­al notes and its rich­ness provides relief as its over­whelms the fla­vour of the black ses­ame. The base also provides a crispy tex­tur­al con­trast to the soft­ness of the mousse.

Koi Dessert Bar is the place to go when you want good cake, and you’re in no mood to exper­i­ment with oth­er a new dessert par­lour. You’re guar­an­teed to be sat­is­fied — every time.

Koi Dessert Bar is at 46 Kensington St, Chippendale NSW 2008.