A dessert of a chocolate mousse hidden under a raspberry coulis, ganache and cocoa-butter on a chocolate soil was declared to be ‘absolutely perfect’ by Masterchef Australia judges in 2015. That was Reynold’s ‘The Forbidden Fruit’ and mere viewers can enjoy an updated version of this memorable dessert at Koi Dessert Bar. How do you improve on ‘absolutely perfect’?
Called Forbidden Fruit v2 ($15.00), this version consists of apple crumble pannacotta, spiced apple, chocolate mousse, raspberry coulis and almond soil. It is, without doubt, one the most beautiful dessert I’ve seen, and there is no shortage of competition in the the cake cabinet at Koi Dessert Bar,.
Cracking open the crispy white chocolate shell of the apple and you’re reminded by the rich sweetness of the mousse and oozing tart coulis that chocolate and raspberry are a perfect pairing, while mint leaves and a green sponge add pops of refreshing flavour and colour, as well as variation in texture.
Beneath the apple is the apple crumble pannacotta, with an almond soil crumble providing the quintessential crunch atop a thin layer of pannacotta lightly spiced with cinnamon.
And hidden beneath the pannacotta, all in a white chocolate hemispherical shell are apples, cooked but retaining their bite and lightly spiced, sitting atop a generously rich bed of dulche de leche with a hint of bitterness to balance the sweetness in the bottom half of this dessert.
Eating the Forbidden Fruit v2 is an experience in itself, as you move from the light and refreshing qualities in the ‘apple’ to the richer and heavier flavours in the bowl. It’s more expensive than the other cakes on offer, but its complexity in construction and the absolute deliciousness of the result leaves you with no room for disappointment. It is ‘absolutely perfect’, truly indulgent, just like the first version.
This Apricot Black Sesame ($12.00) with black sesame mousse, jasmine ganache and apricot agar is relatively simple in comparison but holds its own.
Unless we’re talking whole black sesame or black tahini, black sesame is an elusive flavour that’s almost always it’s drowned out by more dominant flavours when paired with something else. The cake here, though, has hit the sweet spot by pairing black sesame with apricot agar. Apricot isn’t something I’d think to pair with black sesame, but it works like a dream as the sweetness of the apricot acts as if to reset your palate within each bite so that the flavour of the black sesame retains its strength throughout.
The jasmine ganache is bright with floral notes and its richness provides relief as its overwhelms the flavour of the black sesame. The base also provides a crispy textural contrast to the softness of the mousse.
Koi Dessert Bar is the place to go when you want good cake, and you’re in no mood to experiment with other a new dessert parlour. You’re guaranteed to be satisfied — every time.
Koi Dessert Bar is at 46 Kensington St, Chippendale NSW 2008.