Dolci Domus, Chippendale

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With the open­ing of Kensington Street in Chippendale, nearby Dolci Dolmus has aspired to join the crowd. Since my last vis­it, they’d closed for renov­a­tions, likely to match the up-mar­ket feel of Silver Eye and vari­ous res­taur­ants in Kensington St nearby. Their menu’s also under­gone extens­ive slim­ming — where­as there used to be upwards of 10 dif­fer­ent pas­tas, there’s now four only.

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I’m a big fan of lasagna ($15) and used to it eat semi reg­u­larly at home. Now that I’ve stopped that habit, lasagna is a some­times food — my first bite in at least 6 months!

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It’s a hearty lasagna filled with beef mince and a super red bolognese sauce. It’s covered in a deli­ciously chewy moz­zarella crust. I’d have enjoyed more bechemel sauce, which I love with lasagna, and the strips of veget­ables were neither here nor there and served only as gar­nish, but oth­er than that it was a tasty car­bo­hydrate fix.

There’s decidedly less bolognese sauce in the lasagna than when N ordered it a year ago, and with the steep­ness of N’s ravi­oli dish (about 8 pieces), I’d say their cer­tainly slim­ming down the por­tion sizes to fit in with the up mar­ket feel of the res­taur­ants nearby. The ser­vice is still hor­rendously bad, though. Trying to get the atten­tion of wait­resses takes mul­tiple attempts (even when they’re walk­ing right past you) and there’s not the barest of smiles to be seen. I don’t mind bad ser­vice when the food is cheap, but I’m unlikely to return when it’s expens­ive as it is here — except to try their pizzas.

Dolci Dolmus is loc­ated at 16 – 18 Broadway, Ultimo NSW 2007.