Devon Cafe, Surry Hills


Breakfast with the Sakuma’s at Devon is a major draw card. It’s the dish K keeps com­ing back to and N looked for­ward after I tell her of my vis­it with K.


The Breakfast with the Sakuma’s ($26) is miso grilled king sal­mon, smoked eel cro­quette, 63° egg, radish petit salad and kewpie may­on­naise. There are dis­tinctly Japanese fla­vours to the dish (espe­cially in the eel cro­quette) and the sal­mon was grilled to per­fec­tion — medi­um rare. N enjoyed the dish and described as being very easy to eat.


I went for the Eggs Blini ($20), a buck­wheat blini with cured king sal­mon, sal­mon cavi­ar, bro­collini, Mikado sauce and poached eggs.


This blini is my first for­ay into savoury pan­cakes, and it was deli­cious! The blini was fluffy, and while cakey on its own, that didn’t mat­ter because it was tasty once it soaked up all the gooey eggy innards. The Mikado sauce (a hol­londaise sauce with a man­dar­in twist) was added a subtle acid­ity to the dish. The bro­collini was fresh and sweet — bro­collini are a much tasti­er ver­sion of bro­colli — and the cured king sal­mon and sal­mon cavi­ar added pops of salt­i­ness to the dish. All in all, a beau­ti­ful bal­ance of fla­vours. And so pretty too!


Then on a sub­sequent vis­it, I had the Little Lost Toast ($17) — bri­oche French toast, triple chocol­ate, car­a­mel­ized banana, and salted car­a­mel ice cream.


Yes, I had dessert for lunch. Every oth­er vis­it, I’d listened to D’s voice inside my head remind­ing me not to eat desssert for lunch ’cause I’ll feel ter­rible after­wards from the sug­ar crash. But not this time! (I did order a side of bacon as pro­tein to ward off the sug­ar crash though…)

Everything about this French toast is amaz­ing. The bri­oche is pil­lowy soft. The egg coat­ing the bri­oche is crunchy. The salted car­a­mel ice cream had the con­sist­ency of a gelato, so as to be almost refresh­ing against the the bread and the chocol­ate. The car­a­mel­ised banana was so soft and deli­cious that I for­got my gen­er­al aver­sion to fresh bana­nas — this may well be the only way I’ll eat bana­nas in the future! And the triple chocol­ate (white chocol­ate ganache, dark chocol­ate syr­up, hot chocol­ate powder) had the per­fect bit­ter­ness to bal­ance out the sweet­ness of the rest of the plate.


As for drinks, I went with the Iced Orange Mocha ($6), a cold pressed cof­fee with house made chocol­ate orange reduc­tion. It tasted like a liquid jaffle — the orange notes really sing through with it’s tangy fla­vour, while chocol­ate added sweet­ness to the slight bit­ter­ness of the cof­fee. While it’s not some­thing I’d want to drink every­day, the iced orange mocha was enjoy­able and pleas­ant. And it’s totally true that cold brewed cof­fee has high­er levels of caf­feine than hot brewed cof­fee.


Next, I had the Mulled Cascara ($5.50), a hot tea made from dried cof­fee cher­ries (or the dried ber­ries of cof­fee beans). I’d been curi­ous about it pre­vi­ously, so I finally tried it. It tastes noth­ing like cof­fee — it’s sweet and tastes a bit like slow-cooked overly ripened cher­ries. It’s mulled, so there’s def­in­ite hints of spices like nut­meg and cin­na­mon. I’d be curi­ous to taste straight brewed cas­cara, although I can’t say for cer­tain wheth­er I like or dis­like the taste at the moment. It’s not unpleas­ant and an acquired taste, def­in­itely — I’d need to try it a couple more times to decide.


With the French toast, I had a matcha latte ($4). This was a decent matcha latte, although it was on the milky side. I prefer matcha lattes to be cream­i­er (almost like a dessert) and rich­er in fla­vour (on the brink of being too bit­ter).

Overall, Devon Cafe is as good as people say. It cer­tainly doesn’t dis­ap­point!

Devon Cafe is loc­ated at 76 Devonshire St, Surry Hills NSW 2010.